While you will have many opportunities to buy wonderful textiles in San Cristobal take time to thoroughly research things. Take the opportunity to visit Sergio Castros’ Collection of Regional Costumes (previous post) then you’ll have an over-view of the components of the Chiapas ‘traje’ – chales (shawls), enredos (women’ skirts), blusas and huipiles (blouses or huipiles) to name a few important ones.
Shopping at textile co-ops is the best way to support local weavers while assuring them fair prices for their labors instead of prices set by a retail shop owners. The following are by no means the only ones in town. Zapatista villages also have co-ops on Guadalupe walking street, but not necessarily focused on textiles. You might find good deals there if your timing is right.
Sna Jolobil – Has relocated to the Santo Domingo Convent, recently restored with the addition of the Museo Textile of Mayan Textiles next door. It’s in a wonderful light and airy building at the entrance, not to be missed. It’s the highest quality textile co-0p in San Cristobal – if you want to see the very best. Sna Jolobil which means ‘the weavers house’ and was founded about 30 years ago by Pedro Meza a Tenejapa weaver and ‘Chip’ Morris who wrote “Living Maya” and currently includes 800 weavers from 20 Tzotzil and Tzeital indigenous communities. Without going into too much detail included are photos of some of the most impressive items in the store. Chamula, Tenejapa, Magdalena, are a few of the communities pictured. Expect the high quality and high prices although be assured you will be getting the BEST. If you are good shopper you may be able to find some of these items in different locations somewhat cheaper, although some items you will only see here.
J’pas Joloviletik – Avenida General Utrilla # 43 – Easily overlooked as it’s a pretty low-key enterprise manned by very shy women. This co-op located on the back side of Santo Domingo Church across the street and inside a blue arched colonial building, has been in operation 26 years and has two rooms of nicely woven goods- from 6 communities: Pantelho, Chamula, Zinacatan, Huixtlan, Aldama and San Andres L. There is a wide range of items from napkins, table runners, and pillow covers to very nice contemporary blouses, traditional huipiles, woolen items from Chamula all at competitive prices. Remember shopping at co-ops allows more profit to return to the weavers/embroiders for their intensive labor…motivating women to continue weaving and teaching their daughters the skills, helping keep the traditional Mayan textile culture alive.
Jolom Mayaetik – Calzada de la Escuela 25 on the ‘old road’ to Chamula – up about 1.5 blocks on the right– This co-op has been in business since 1996 and includes 250 women weavers from the highlands of Chiapas. The store is a light filled room with shelves stacked with textiles located on a small parcel of land a short ways up the ‘old’ road to Chamula, which includes a school and meeting center. The place was buzzing with activity when we were there – women delivery goods and the shop ladies’ kids playing on the floor. The focus here is more on ‘domestics’ – nice contemporary designs and colors – pillow covers, decoratively woven and embroidered, napkins, table cloths. There are wearables: bags, shawls, blouses and even irresistible baby clothes. High quality goods with a European flair – (French designers were involved a few years back and their influence is in evidence).
San Cristobal is a wonderful shopping experience that doesn’t quit. The market in front of Santo Domingo is chocked full of stuff . It takes awhile to sort through to find the true bargains and unique items, but worth it. Remember here you are expected to bargain but the co-ops prices are fixed.